MIRUM®
A plastic-free, 100% biobased composite material created with virgin or recycled plant matter.
Traditional leather is made from animals, through a largely unregulated and often cruel process, while most alternatives (often marketed as ‘vegan’), are usually made entirely from synthetic materials. Discover how we approach leather and its alternatives at PANGAIA, and the problem-solving solutions we’re exploring.
MIRUM®
MIRUM® is a 100% biobased, composite material with all raw inputs sourced from virgin or recycled plant matter (agricultural waste). Natural inputs, such as rubber and cork, are sourced from well-managed forests, with FSC certification. This alternative is completely petrochemical-free and eliminates the dependency on fossil fuels.
Additionally, this material has the capability to be 100% recyclable and 100% circular, when disassembled and entered into the correct waste stream or as a raw material. While MIRUM® as a material itself is fully recyclable, at PANGAIA we are still working on our end of life services for our products. We are currently exploring exciting opportunities that provide circular solutions for our products, such as take back, sorting and recycling.
The problem with leather and synthetic alternatives
Animal Leather
Leather is most commonly made from animal hides from bovine (cow), ovine (sheep) porcine (pig) or caprine (goat), which is processed into a finished product through tanning. The main issue with sourcing animal leather is the slaughter— a largely unregulated, cruel industry with intensive chemical processing required. Currently, most alternatives available on the market are fossil fuel-based (a non-renewable resource) and can’t be recycled.
PVC
- Is derived from finite fossil fuel sources
- Is chemically-intensive to manufacture and uses chemicals found on Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs)
- Releases dioxins (toxic chemical compounds) into the environment during production
- Incorporates phthalate plasticizers (hormonal disruptors) which are dangerous to humans and ecosystems
- Cannot be recycled and releases toxic chemicals in landfill
PU
- Is a synthetic polymer made from petroleum-based chemicals (its raw material is crude oil)
- Uses toxic chemicals, finite natural resources, harmful solvents and high amounts of energy in production
- Releases toxic compounds when waste is burned
- Does not biodegrade at the end of its life
Though PU is safer for humans than PVC, it’s still dependent on petrochemical raw materials. In order to make PU workable for a vegan alternative it must be turned into a liquid using harsh solvents. These solvents are usually high in volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which are harmful to humans and the environment. But, recent advances in chemistry have developed a less toxic process known as water-based polyurethane or polyurethane dispersion (PUD). This involves modifiers and other agents in addition to water, which means PUD is a less toxic and harmful process, although we are aware PUD still relies on petrochemical raw materials and does not biodegrade at the end of its life.
Another Alternative to Leather: Vegea
Vegea’s grape waste material was born out of a desire to repurpose waste from the Italian winemaking industry. The solid remains of grapes after pressing (including the skins, pulp, seeds and stems) are combined with vegetable oil and water-based polyurethane (PUD). This biobased material is then coated onto cotton, resulting in a durable material made of more than 70% renewable and recycled raw materials.
Vegea’s material utilizes and repurposes waste materials, thereby extending the utility of the grapes and making the winemaking process more circular. The base material is cotton, and it uses the most environmentally-responsible form of polyurethane on the market.
Unfortunately, this material is not yet biodegradable and is difficult to recycle. With that in mind, we decided to only use this in products that are low-wash and long-lasting. We try our hardest to have a mindful approach to design, appropriately matching each material to a product that makes the most sense in terms of sustainability, functionality and purpose.
At PNAGAIA our goal is to only use, and continue to develop, petrochemical-free alternatives to animal leather. Our sneakers are comfortable, cushioned and created using repurposed waste from discarded grape skins, stalks, and seeds—extending the use of the grapes and creating a more circular system. The sole is made from 86% natural rubber.